Bronze Pilot Watches
Pilot watches long ago transcended tool-watch status to become popular everyday sport models for the earth-bound irers of their rugged good looks. Now, a spate of bronze-encased, purpose-built aviators invests the classic look with vintage elán.
Retro military styling marks a new trio of bronze flieger (the German word for pilot) watches from Laco. The brand, originally known as Lacher & Co., once equipped Luftwaffe pilots with robust, reliable flight instruments. The automatic Münster Bronze ($1,990, not shown) and Leipzig Bronze ($1,990, top right), with 42-mm, sandblasted bronze cases, matte black dials and riveted brown calfskin straps for added antique character, would be at home in a World War II movie. Super-LumiNova lights up the hands and markers for visibility after dark and both are appointed with the flieger’s trademark triangle at 12 o’clock.
The Münster Bronze features the company’s Type A dial, with its large Arabic numerals and a second hand for no-nonsense legibility. The Leipzig model’s Type B dial is precise, with a larger minute scale around the periphery and smaller hour markers in the center. The third piece, the Memmingen Bronze ($1,990, not shown), sports the Type A dial and is powered by a manual-winding movement.
Oris, which has long used bronze for its dive watches, now employs the metal for the 41-mm Big Crown ProPilot Big Date ($2,200, left), endowing the classic with freshness and flair. A fluted bezel and oversize crown contrast with a deep black dial printed with golden indices. The hands, which are filled with white Super-LumiNova, and the hour markers, made of solid Super-LumiNova, heighten legibility. The fabric strap is fitted with Oris’ lift clasp, a device inspired by a plane’s seatbelt buckle.
IWC introduced its Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 ($7,300, bottom right) in bronze with blue dial and gold-plated hands. The IWC-made 69385 calibre powers the column-wheel chronograph, which tracks stop-time measurements of up to 12 hours. A pawl winding system that works in two directions delivers a 46-hour power reserve.
The Swiss brand uses a bronze alloy containing aluminum and iron, making it about 50 percent harder than standard bronze. As a result, it’s tough enough to take some hard knocks as it develops a unique patina over the long haul.
