Military Inspiration
The fact that most men now prefer their watch on their wrist—and not tucked away—has military origin. In 1880, German Kaiser Wilhelm I ordered 2,000 wristwatches from Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux for German naval officers. At the time, wristwatches were for women, while men kept their timepieces where they belonged, linked to chains in their pockets. Decades later, however, with the turning of the 20th century, the invention of airplanes, and two world wars, military personnel around the globe switched to wristwatches for practicality, and watches often became essential tools.
Many well-known brands have a service record. Bulova, Elgin and Hamilton made military watches in America. During World War II, Britain commissioned watches from Eterna, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Longines and Omega, among others. German soldiers wore watches by Hanhart, Tutima, IWC and A. Lange & Söhne, while Panerai supplied the Italian navy. Today, watch designers are paying tribute to this significant heritage with military motifs from NATO straps to khaki and camouflage dials.
Alpina, which supplied watches to the German navy and Luftwaffe, recalls its heritage with this year's Startimer Pilot Chronograph Big Date ($1,095). The 44-mm, quartz-powered, stainless steel watch took inspiration from the brand's 1970s-era pilot watches with its clearly legible black dial with white markings and silvered chronograph counters. Alpina's signature red triangle tips the base of the central chronograph hand, and an army-green technical leather strap enhances the military spirit of the design.
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Historic aviation and aeronautical instruments were the seeds of inspiration for the 1992 founding of Bell & Ross, which has produced watches for the French Air Force and elite police units. This year, the French brand, which manufactures its watches in Switzerland, introduced a military version of its BR 03 Ceramic in khaki green with a matching black rubber and khaki canvas strap. With its lightweight and super scratch-resistant, matte-black ceramic case and antireflective sapphire crystal, the automatic BR 03 Military Type ($4,300) is rugged and ready for action. The Super-LumiNova-treated dial lights up after dark and is marked with a screen-printed red MT symbol, which stands for Military Type. The watch is powered by an automatic mechanical movement.
Ralph Lauren has outfitted its vintage-flavored RL67 Safari Chronometer ($4,000) with a green camouflage-patterned dial featuring varnished beige Super-LumiNova Arabic numerals and a bright orange seconds hand. The 45-mm, black, stainless-steel case is treated to give it an aged-looking patina. Inside beats a self-winding COSC-certified chronometer with a 42-hour power reserve.
As khaki, camo prints and bomber jackets remain popular in men's fashion this year, these military-themed watches are both timely and timeless, even if your only mission is to look sharp.
Visit alpina-watches.com, bellross.com, ralphlaurenwatches.com
